A steakhouse CUT above the rest
We review Wolfgang Puck’s delicious Dubai debut.Neil Churchill August 29, 2014
With views over the Burj Khalifa, CUT looks the part both inside and out. Its dark wood colour scheme mixed with the brand’s distinctive red leather chairs, soft beige sofas, floor to ceiling mirrors and contemporary lighting have a suave but relaxed feel; a three-piece suit would be too smart; jeans and t-shirt, too casual.
The bar’s classic circa-1980s look is polished with modern touches, the most obvious of which is the eclectic cocktail menu. Taking the advice of the mixologist we chose a Rolling Fog Over Mount Fuji – an Old Fashioned twist – and a Pins & Needles – a fruity take on a G&T. For these two concoctions alone CUT is worth visiting and if they were ever to extend the bar’s capacity, it could well rival DIFC’s evening crowd.
Aside from the food, the music is something that Wolfgang had a hand in choosing and, as he told EDGAR when we chatted to him, you can’t beat some timeless rock classics. The number of staff alone adds a busy, thriving vibe, and their service is very impressive.
A steakhouse’s reputation tends to float on the strength of its meat, but the starters and side dishes shouldn't be overlooked, something CUT is well aware of. The steak tartare, wagyu sliders and tuna tartare togarashi starters were exquisite in both taste and presentation. Had they been main course-sized, they easily would have satisfied our hunger.
That said, there is no mistaking what the main event is. Presented with the evening’s cuts at your table, the steaks are then grilled over hard wood and charcoal before being blasted under a 1,200 degree broiler.
If you’re indecisive, the Tasting of New York Sirloin offers samples of the Prime Black Angus, hybrid and Japanese Wagyu: all of which are melt-in-the-mouth good, but the Wagyu we could have gorged on forever. There are also non-meat options of jumbo prawns, lobster and dover sole. If you have room for dessert, the dark chocolate soufflé is first rate, although if your stomach’s full on red meat and red wine, the cheese board may sit better.
It's probably the best new steakhouse in Dubai.
Details: CUT, The Address Downtown, Dubai. For more visit wolfgangpuck.com