Tasted: Atelier M, Pier 7, Dubai
French fine-dining with an Asian twist awaits those at the top of Pier 7 in Dubai’s marina.April 30, 2014
Atelier M has played an unbeatable hand at the current hotspot in Dubai Marina, securing the top two floors as well as the rooftop of Pier 7, offering stunning views of the marina and JBR buildings that surround it.
The French décor of the 7th floor restaurant is elegant and chic with starch white tablecloths mixed with wicker chairs and golden lamps. The huge floor space and open kitchen removes the chance of this being a haughty or pretentious venue, with the distance between tables still offering intimacy.
The lounge one floor up is much the same, with comfy chairs and sofas replacing the dining sets. Here though they also offer cigars, with a range of boxes from Montecristos to Habanas.
The rooftop is the real catch. Completely open air with spacious seating and a bar centre stage, this is the venue’s trump card as the new top dog in the marina.
Sitting down at 8pm the atmosphere in the restaurant was relatively subdued with only one other table occupied. Fast-forward to 10pm and with a good dozen other parties enjoying the setting there was more of a buzz.
On fully booked evenings it will surely have the bustle of a high-class Parisian eatery and be an atmospheric venue for couples, clients and sophisticated group meals. The lounge was a little quieter, but that can be forgiven when the weather is still cool and there’s a rooftop to enjoy; we discovered that’s where the atmosphere, and other customers, were hiding.
Although it is French cuisine with an Asian mix, the food wasn’t weighted too heavily on either. The menu is created to be a sharing concept, with each dish designed to share and served as soon as it’s ready.
Starters of tempura courgette flowers and crab croquettes were very good with a palatable mix of crunchy tempura and soft risotto in the former and tasty packed crab in the latter.
But the tiger shrimp salad is EDGAR’s recommendation: the meaty prawns cooked in beurre blanc with an avocado and tomato salad were delicious. Lamb chops for the main course were a lovely texture with firm pearl barley risotto complimenting the tenderness of the meat. It would be unfair to choose between the other two dishes: the wagyu striploin was incredibly tender and tasty, coming with shitake mushrooms, shallots, garlic puree and a mildly spicy chimichurri sauce.
Likewise the butter poached lobster was incredibly soft, falling out of its shell without any cracking into its lobster bisque and mashed potato. The deconstructed lemon tart for desert is served in a real flowerpot; order it just to believe us. But the mango parfait is the tastier of the two and a great dish to finish your meal with.
It serves cigars with near 360 degrees views.
Details: Atelier M, Pier 7, Dubai Marina. For more visit atelierm.ae