Step back into 1920s London with this Dubai restaurant
November 7, 2014
Classy and elegant are two words that immediately spring to mind when people talk about Wheeler’s, and after taking a seat at one of their 20 impeccable tables, it is not hard to see why.
The high ceilings are decorated with modern chandeliers; the floor made from an exquiste Italian marble – as is the bar area – and with help from the black grand piano in the corner, there is a unmistakably charming 1920s London feel to the place.
Attracting a dignified clientelle, the small bar area is rarely empty of people popping in for a post-work tipple (think classic gin and tonics rather than pints of beer). The lights are not too low, the music is not too loud and the busy tables are not too boisterous. Wheeler’s knows exactly what it wants to be, and does it well.
Under the masthead of celebrity chef Marco-Pierre White, Wheeler’s has long championed classic British food with a contemporary twist. It is a cuisine that is heavily reflected in the DIFC kitchen’s recently revamped menu.
A starter of boneless beef short rib with cauliflower puree is a perfect example of chef Daniel Lewis’ skill – the tower of supremly tender beef finding a perfect accompaniment with the creamy puree and a rich beef jus. While a simple and creatively plated tuna tartar (accompanied by a sweet tomato and chevre yogurt dressing) pays tribute to the restaurant’s London-based namesake’s reputation for seafood.
Despite that reputation, the meal continues down the carnivorous path with mains of the Grass Fed Black Angus tenderloin with triple cooked chips and onion puree and the Rump of Salt Marsh Lamb with a side of dauphinoise potatoes proving too tempting to turn down. Both dishes are faultlessly cooked, with the portions carefully measured not to tempt diners into over indulging before dessert.
Despite claiming not being ‘dessert people’ the beautifully presented rhubarb and custard with spiced fruit was a show stealer.
Quintessential modern British cooking, straight out of the top draw.
Details: Gate Village, DIFC, Dubai. For more visit wheelersdubai.com